Почему нельзя вырвать зуб дома: возможные осложнения

9 октября 2018

Поход к стоматологу для многих является стрессом несмотря на то, что качество оказания медицинских услуг сегодня находится на достаточно высоком уровне, а разные виды анестезии помогают избавиться от чувства боли и дискомфорта. Особенно пациенты не спешат пойти к доктору, когда узнают о необходимости удаления зуба или оценивают со своей стороны, что он находится в плохом состоянии. Некоторые начинают задумываться о том, как вырвать зуб самостоятельно.

Почему не стоит вырывать зуб самостоятельно дома?

Редакция портала UltraSmile.ru рекомендует никогда не проводить подобные эксперименты, даже если зуб сильно шатается. Читайте статью и узнаете, почему делать это крайне опасно для здоровья.

Это точно будет больно

Удаление зубов – хирургическая операция, которую врачи признают чуть ли не более сложной, чем имплантацию. Процедура требует высокого профессионализма и точности, наличия специального медицинского инструмента, щипцов. А еще того, чтобы рука не дрогнула. Но вырвать зуб, если он плотно сидит в лунке, быстро и безболезненно просто нереально. Любое действие в таком случае будет причинять острый болевой отклик, а все средства «Найз», «Нурофен», «Кетонал», которые свободно продаются в аптеке, не смогут подготовить вас к процедуре. Ведь даже в стоматологии при экстракции зубной единицы врачи используют действенный инфильтрационный или проводниковый тип анестезии. Иногда даже комбинируют два этих вида обезболивания.

Только в клинике есть возможность провести процедуру под анестезией

«Те люди, которые задумываются о том, как вырвать зуб дома, не придают значения тому факту, что на зубе или в его корневой системе может протекать воспалительный процесс, присутствовать абсцесс или периодонтит. Даже в условиях стоматологического кабинета такая ситуация считается сложной, а применяемая врачами анестезия при удалении не дает стопроцентного избавления от боли. Всегда остается 10-20% на то, что проявится дискомфорт. Хотя в идеальной ситуации лично я настаиваю на том, чтобы сначала купировать острый воспалительный процесс, а потом уже приступить к экстракции, иначе не миновать послеоперационных осложнений», – подчеркивает стоматолог-хирург Балуев Н.Н.

Можно вытащить зуб не полностью и повредить околозубные ткани

В множестве статей, выложенных на просторах интернета, народные умельцы дают советы о том, как вырвать зуб в домашних условиях. Они советуют плотно обхватить его марлей и постепенно расшатывать двумя пальцами. Делать это рекомендуется неторопливо, без резких движений. Вся опасность такой ситуации заключается в том, что в процессе этих мероприятий вы можете запросто:

• обломить лишь часть коронки,
• сломать корень,
• оставить в лунке мелкие осколки корня,
• травмировать челюсть или костную ткань,
• повредить слизистую: щеки, губы, десны, околозубные ткани,
• повредить эмаль или корневую систему соседних зубов,
• вызвать сильное непрекращающееся кровотечение: так называемое луночковое кровотечение может возникнуть не сразу, а спустя сутки и даже несколько суток. Оно возникает в результате повреждения кровеносных сосудов, травматично проведенных манипуляций. Также патология может проявиться на фоне общих заболеваний организма, о которых вы могли не знать, гипертоническая болезнь, желтуха, лейкоз.

Есть вероятность возникновения луночного кровотечения

Любое из таких последствий повлечет осложнения и тяжелый реабилитационный период. Если вы не сумеете до конца выдернуть зуб самостоятельно или остановить кровотечение, то вам в итоге все равно придется посетить стоматолога. Возможно, возникнет необходимость накладывать швы, заплатить деньги за длительное лечение и устранение последствий домашней самодеятельности.

На заметку!

Если зуб многокорневой или является сложным, например, зуб мудрости ретинирован или дистопирован, то его удаление в домашних условиях просто недопустимо. Даже профессиональный врач в стоматологии тщательно готовится к такой манипуляции и предупреждает пациента о возможных осложнениях. Специалист проделывает множество манипуляций: проводит разрез десны и удаление коронки, затем по очереди извлекает корни, закладывает костнопластический материал, выполняет кюретаж лунки и накладывает швы.

Высокий риск развития инфекции

Как можно пробовать вырвать зуб в домашних условиях, если видима только коронковая его часть? По сути, это всего лишь 40% зуба, все остальное скрыто в глубине корневой системы. Например, специалисты для анализа ситуации сначала направляют пациента на рентген. Но ведь если вы решились на такой отчаянный шаг дома, то наверняка зуб доставлял сильное беспокойство, болел, был разрушен кариесом или пульпитом. А значит, не исключено, что на его корнях или околозубных тканях может развиться периодонтит, периостит, локализоваться киста или гранулема.

Периостит вызывает отек и асимметрию лица

Все эти явления опасны, и если начать тревожить воспаленный зуб, не прибегая к квалифицированной помощи медиков, то не исключено, что инфекция уйдет вглубь костной ткани, вызовет заражение крови, повреждение нервов на нижней челюсти и верхнечелюстных пазухах сверху, поразит органы дыхания или пищеварения, и даже приведет к смертельному исходу. Такая инфекция может стать опасной и для благополучия здоровых зубов, расположенных по соседству с больным.

Тем более ситуация ухудшается, если вы удалили зуб не полностью – в этом случае остаток корня попросту начнет гнить изнутри.

«Долго искала, как самостоятельно удалить молочный зуб своему ребенку, т.к. он боится врачей. Но благо, муж оказался благоразумнее меня и отвел прямо-таки за руку сына ко врачу. Выбрал детскую клинику, где всю процедуру провели быстро, играючи и без страха. Правда, заплатили прилично, но я не жалею, в конце концов здоровье ребенка и его психологическое спокойствие важнее денег. И еще я навсегда запомнила слова врача: нельзя самому вырвать молочный зуб, т.к. его корни в определенный момент начинают рассасываться и есть риск повредить или выдернуть зачатки постоянных, что очень опасно!»

Янина, г. Старый Оскол, отзыв с сайта Стоматология.рф

Практически наверняка разовьется альвеолит

Если вы будете вырывать зубы дома, то вполне возможно, через несколько дней узнаете о таком неприятном явлении, как альвеолит. Это воспаление лунки, находящейся на месте удаленного зуба. Вы можете занести инфекцию во время проведения операции, т.к. в домашней обстановке сложно даже при соблюдении всех мер достичь стерильности медицинского кабинета.

На фото показано воспаление лунки после удаления зуба

Также причиной формирования воспалительного процесса может стать отсутствие кровяного сгустка в лунке, который должен там сформироваться при правильном проведении оперативного вмешательства и правильном зажиме лунки ватным тампоном.

Альвеолит характеризуется болью, отечностью мягких тканей десны, плохим запахом изо рта, повышением температуры тела и требует профессиональной помощи, а также приема лекарств и антибиотиков!

Сильный отек гарантирован

Отек на лице – естественное последствие любого вмешательства в живые ткани организма, но он может быть очень опасен и даже привести к анафилактическому шоку, т.к. в непосредственной близости здесь находятся органы дыхания. Риск заполучить сильную отечность возникает на фоне сложного или неправильного удаления, воспалительного процесса, который протекал на корнях. Такой отек не проходит спустя несколько дней после проведения манипуляций, а лишь увеличивается в размерах, доставляет боль и даже может затруднять дыхание, прием и пережевывание пищи.

Если действительно интересуетесь тем, как выдергивают зуб дома и пытаетесь реализовать эту идею даже после прочтения материала, пожалуйста, делайте это только тогда, когда зуб сильно подвижен и будьте крайне внимательны к своему состоянию в момент и после проведенной процедуры, соблюдайте стерильность, ограничьте физическую активность, используйте холодные компрессы для снижения отечности, обезболивающие для уменьшения болевого синдрома. И все-таки после процедуры посетите врача – пусть он убедится, что все нормально – и не важно, удаляли вы себе зуб, своему знакомому, родственнику или ребенку.

Холодный компресс поможет уменьшить отек

И еще один важный совет: обязательно задумайтесь о дальнейшем восстановлении и протезировании утраченной единицы через профессиональных стоматологов. Например, можно поставить мостовидный протез или провести имплантацию зубов.

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90000 Your Guide to Tear-out | Popular Woodworking Magazine 90001 90002 We may receive a commission when you use our affiliate links. However, this does not impact our recommendations. 90003 90004 Why Should Understand How Wood Fails 90005 90002 Tear-out is ugly, but how does it happen? Ground-breaking research that began in the 1950s by Norman C. Franz showed how wood fails when you cut it with hand tools or power tools. Using a movie camera and a milling machine, Franz made amazing photos that pointed out how certain cuts produce torn grain.Franz defined three types of cuts, and only one type causes tearing. As you study the drawings below, the most important thing to remember about tear-out relates to the line that the cutter is traveling on. If the wood fails above this line, no tear-out happens. If it fails below the line, you get tear-out. 90003 90002 90009 A «Type I» Cut Against the Grain = Tear-out 90010 90011 A «Type I» cut occurs when the wood fails ahead of the tool’s cutting edge. If the tool is cutting against the grain of the board, then the cut goes deeper than intended when the shaving is levered upwards by the tool.Because the failure occurs below the line the cutter is traveling on, you get tear-out. 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90009 A «Type I» Cut With the Grain = No Tear-out 90010 90011 When you have a «Type I» cut and are working with the grain of the board, the wood is levered up ahead of the tool’s cutting edge, but no tear-out occurs because the wood fails above the line the cutter is traveling on. 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90009 A «Type II» Cut = No Tear-out 90010 90011 When you have a «Type II» cut (either with the grain or against it) the wood fails right at the cutting edge.And No tear-out occurs. You can encourage a «Type II» cut in a plane by using a sharp tool, a high angle of attack or a tight mouth aperture. 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90009 A «Type III» Cut Can Cause a «Type I» Cut 90010 90011 A «Type III» cut occurs when the wood fibers are compressed mightily at the cutting edge by a very high angle of attack. This compressed wood can become a problem. It can compress to the point where it becomes a wedge and levers up the wood fibers ahead of the cutting edge, causing torn grain.90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 Download the free PDF: 90011 Guide_to_Tearout 90003 90002 — 90064 From Leonard Lee’s «The Complete Guide to Sharpening» and R. Bruce Hoadley’s «Understanding Wood»; Illustrations by Mary Jane Favorite 90065 90003 90067 90002 Product Recomendations 90003 90002 Here are some supplies and tools we find essential in our everyday work around the shop. We may receive a commission from sales referred by our links; however, we have carefully selected these products for their usefulness and quality.90003.90000 Taming Handplane Tear-out | Popular Woodworking Magazine 90001 90002 We may receive a commission when you use our affiliate links. However, this does not impact our recommendations. 90003 90002 Nothing in handplaning is more frustrating than tear-out — which is when the wood rips up in small chunks instead of being sliced ​​clean away. Over the years, I’ve collected solutions to eliminate it and found the following ones to be the most useful. 90003 90002 90007 No 1: The Answer is in the Branches 90008 90009 Whenever I’m working a booth at a woodworking show, there’s a fair chance that some power-tool-only woodworkers will give me some grief.Usually it starts with a few taunts during a handplaning demonstration ( «Hey buddy where do you plug that thing in?»). 90003 90002 But I always relish the moments when they start to ask real questions. Here’s my favorite question (slightly edited to make it saucier): 90003 90002 «So Mr. Handplane guy, «they’d say. «Let’s say you have a hickory board that’s 8 ‘long from a tree that grew on a hill. The board’s in wind, and it’s got a good crook in it as well. How would you flatten that board? » 90003 90002 «Oh that’s easy,» I’d reply.»I’d start with my broad axe.» 90003 90002 «Axe?» they’d say, confusion spreading across their brow. 90003 90002 «Yup, I’d chop the board into 12″ lengths and feed them to the wood-burning stove. » 90003 90002 I know this sounds like Southern hyperbole (to which I am prone), but I’m serious when I say that the best way to reduce your tear-out problems (with both hand and machine tools) is through careful stock selection. 90003 90002 About seven years ago I worked with Sam Sherrill and Michael Romano on a project to encourage woodworkers to use lumber in their projects that woodworkers harvested from downed or doomed urban trees.90003 90002 One of these projects was a large dining table that Sherrill had built using a gargantuan pin oak. The table was nice, but the story behind it was not. 90003 90002 The lumber for the table had come from the enormous, Jurassic-scale branches of the pin oak. The boards were wide (like those from a bole) but they were still reaction wood. Branch wood. Junk wood. 90003 90002 When Sherrill and Romano went to dry the wood and surface it, the wood self-destructed. It warped, split, you name it.They told wild tales of how it exploded (yes, exploded) in the planer. They lost the majority of what they had cut, according to Sherrill. 90003 90002 That story sticks with me to this day. When I pick my boards for any project. I stay tuned to the grain of the boards at hand. If the grain reverses on itself through the plank a good deal, then I skip the board or saw it into short lengths, which might not give me trouble. 90003 90002 That sounds wasteful. But the most precious commodity in woodworking is not the wood, but the time we spend working (or butchering) it.You can make your work faster and easier just by being a lot more choosy. 90003 90002 90007 No. 2: Look Sharp 90008 90009 For me, sharpening is like changing the oil in my car. It’s messy and time-consuming, but you do it regularly or disaster will befall you eventually. 90003 90002 So I’m not a sharpening fascist. I’m a good sharpener, but I do not take more than five to 10 minutes to renew a micro-bevel. But I firmly believe that a sharp iron is the second best way to reduce tear-out when handplaning.90003 90002 This belief guides me when I sharpen my tools and regulates the attention I pay to each tool’s edge. Here is what my typical sharpening chores look like in my shop: 90003 90002 For me, sharpening begins at the end of a project. With the piece of furniture complete and the deadline pressure off, I take a few hours to sharpen my tools. I always sharpen the iron of my jointer, smoothing and block planes. If I used any chisels for more than a quick pare, I hone them. Then I move through the rest of the tool box.Any joinery planes (such as router, shoulder, fillister and plow planes) and moulding planes that I used get sharpened. I’ll also examine my marking knives, jack plane, auger bits and marking gauges. If they’re dull, I touch them up. 90003 90002 I do this at the conclusion of the project so when I start a new piece of furniture, everything is ready to go. Anal-retentive? Perhaps. But as I build the next project I do not stop to sharpen unless I damage a tool by dropping it or hitting a nail, or my smoothing plane leaves tear-out.90003 90002 If my other planes give me tear-out, I can usually wait it out. But tear-out at the smoothing stage of a project is a frustrating battle to fight. You can try a bunch of different strategies to eliminate the tear-out, but the first one should be to hone up your smoothing plane’s iron and try again. 90003 90002 90003 90002 Everybody must get stoned. When I have some tear-out that I can not tame, the first place I turn is my sharpening stones. A sharp iron greatly reduces tearing.90003 90002 90003 90002 90007 No. 3: Think Small 90008 90009 Most handplane geeks know that across the Pacific Ocean there is a culture that is even more obsessed than we are with the mechanics of cutting wood with a plane. 90003 90002 I’m speaking, of course, about the Japanese, who hold handplaning contests where competitors see who can make the longest and thinnest full-width shaving. 90003 90002 They measure the thickness of these champion shavings in microns. And the results are often affected by the weather.A wet day will swell the shavings by a few microns. 90003 90002 Sadly, Western woodworkers have become obsessed by creating ultra-thin shavings, which requires planes to be tuned to a very high note. What’s wrong with this philosophy is that it focuses on the garbage instead of the good stuff. The shavings get thrown away, remember? It’s the resulting work surface that we keep. 90003 90002 You want to be able to take the thickest shaving you can without tear-out, chatter or requiring you to bulk up like Conan the Barbarian.A thick shaving will get you done with fewer passes of the smoothing plane over your workpiece. 90003 90002 So how thick should your shaving be? Good question. Most people talk about getting shavings that are less than .002 «thick. Or they talk about «sub-thou» shavings. Yes, it’s all very empirical, except for the fact that few woodworkers really know how to measure shaving thickness. Squeeze a dial caliper hard enough and you can make almost any shaving into a «sub-thou» shaving. Wood compresses.Metal bends. 90003 90002 So I go for visual cues instead. 90003 90002 If the wood is well-behaved, I go for an opaque shaving — that is, as long as the curvature of the cutting edge of my iron is significant enough to keep the corners of my iron from digging into my work. See the photo at bottom left to see what this shaving looks like. This shaving gets the work done fast. If the surface has been flattened by a jointer plane, a shaving like this will dress a surface for final finishing in one or two passes.90003 90002 If I get tear-out with a beefy shaving, I retract the iron into the mouth of the handplane and extend it until the shaving looks like the photo at bottom center. 90003 90002 This shaving will clean up my surfaces in three of four passes. It usually eliminates tear-out more than the shaving above. But sometimes I need to get nuttier. 90003 90002 And that’s when I push my tool to get a shaving like the one at bottom right. This thing is about to fall apart. In fact, it sometimes will fall apart when you remove it from the mouth.Usually, this sort of shaving requires a persnickety setup to achieve. I can not get this shaving with an Anant, new Stanley or Groz plane. They are just too coarse to tune to this high level. This is what you are paying your money for when you buy a premium tool. Premium tools will do this with little fettling. My vintage planes that I’ve fussed over will do this as well. 90003 90002 The downside to this shaving is that you will be making a lot of them to remove the tear-out on the board. About 10 cycles or more is typical for some small tear-out.90003 90002 Can you get nuttier? Sure. If all else fails, I can set my plane to remove something between a shaving and dust. These «shavings» do not really look like much. How do you get them? That’s easy. When I get my thinnest smoothing-plane shaving possible, I’ll rub some paraffin on the sole of the tool. This actually reduces the depth of cut just enough to get the furry, dusty stuff. Beware: Taking a shaving that small will force you into a lot of work. Lots of passes. 90003 90002 But when you need it, you need it.90003 90002 Thicker is faster. (Left) A substantial shaving such as this one reduces the number of passes you take, but it can increase your chances of getting tear-out. A bit thinner. (Center) This shaving is about half the thickness of the thick one. Use this size shaving if you start to see tearing on the surface of your project. Tissue stops tearing. (Right) Before I break out the sander I try cutting a shaving such as this one. It takes more passes than I like, but it is less likely to tear the grain.90003 90002 90007 No. 4: Perfect Pitch 90008 90009 After taking a recent course in handwork, Rick Gayle, a reader and professional painter, visited our shop at the magazine and looked over some of the planes in my wall-hung toolbox. He reached up and pulled out the Veritas Bevel-Up Smoother Plane. 90003 90002 «This plane has made all other planes obsolete,» Rick said. «Well, that’s what my instructor said.» 90003 90002 It’s a strong statement to say that hundreds of years of handplane manufacturing have been eclipsed by one tool, but I know what Rick’s instructor was getting at.When it comes to reducing tear-out, one of the most important weapons is the angle of the tool’s cutter — a.k.a. the «angle of attack.» And no other tool gets you to a high planing angle as easily. 90003 90002 The higher the angle of attack, the less likely the wood fibers will lift up and tear out. Sounds good, right? What’s the catch? 90003 90002 The only practical downside to a high angle of attack is that the tool is harder to push. And that’s not too much of a factor when your shavings are tissue-thin.Plus, the high angle of attack works great with well-behaved hardwoods, too. 90009 So what does the Veritas plane have to do with the angle of attack? After all, its cutter seems slung a lot lower than the cutter on a traditional plane. Well, the difference is that the Veritas (and some other block-plane-like tools such as the Lie-Nielsen No. 164) work with the cutter’s bevel facing up, while traditional planes cut with the bevel facing down. 90003 90002 This makes a huge difference. 90003 90002 In a traditional plane with the bevel facing down, the angle of attack is almost always set by the frog (the casting that holds the cutter).In almost all vintage metal planes, this angle is 45 ° (new planes by Lie-Nielsen let you pick a 50 ° or 55 ° frog, however). 90003 90002 When you flip the cutter over, the angle the bevel is sharpened at comes into the equation when figuring out the angle of attack. Here’s how: The cutter in a bevel-up plane is usually bedded at 12 ° or 20 ° to the sole of the plane. Let’s use 12 ° for our example. If you sharpen the cutter so it has a 30 ° microbevel on it, then you add the angle of the bed (12 °) to the angle sharpened on your cutter (30 °) to get the angle of attack (42 °).90003 90002 So this configuration would make a bevel-up plane behave much like a traditional bevel-down plane — or perhaps even a bit worse. 90003 90002 But if you sharpen the cutter at 45 ° instead of 30 °, then the world changes. You add the 45 ° to the 12 ° and suddenly you have an angle of attack that is 57 ° — that’s fairly steep. And you can achieve that angle (and remove it) with just one quick sharpening. 90003 90002 So what’s the best angle of attack for gnarly woods? I’ve found that with almost all woods, tear-out tends to disappear with a 62 ° angle of attack — that means sharpening a 50 ° bevel on your cutter and putting it on a 12 ° bed in our example.90003 90002 If you have a bevel-down plane, you get to this high angle by sharpening your iron with a knife edge, which is more work. 90003 90002 Bevel-up can help. All three of these tools have their bevels facing up. This fact makes them easy to configure to a high angle of attack. It just takes a little sharpening. 90003 90002 90007 No. 5: Button Your Lip 90008 90009 I have held (and used) three of Karl Holtey’s revolutionary No. 98 planes. The first thing you notice about these tools is that they are flawless.Holtey lavishes attention on his planes like Gollum on the Precious. Every surface, inside and out, is perfect. Once you take that in, the next thing you notice is the non-adjustable mouth of the tool. It is, by most tool snob standards, big enough to drive a scrub plane shaving through. What gives? 90003 90002 To find out, I sharpened up two planes: My trusty Lie-Nielsen No. 4 with a 50 ° frog and a mouth aperture between .002 «and .0025» wide. Then I sharpened up the Holtey so its angle of attack was also 50 °.Then I took a board of nasty, surly Jatoba (it’s almost as mean as coconut) and planed it with both tools. Then I turned that board around and planed it against the grain with both tools. 90003 90002 I know this board, and it’s about as bad a board as I ever want to work. Most standard-pitch planes tear it out. But both the Holtey and the Lie-Nielsen cleaned it up with no problems — both with the grain and against the grain. 90009 This little experiment calls into question the plane snob’s obsession with tiny mouth apertures.(By the way, I’m the chapter president of the local plane snob club.) After planing that Jatoba, I had to ask myself: Do you need a fine mouth for high-tolerance work? 90003 90002 I think the answer is: It depends. I think tightening up the mouth aperture of your plane is just one of the weapons you have in your battle against tear-out. But I do not think it’s the doomsday weapon. 90003 90002 The long-held theory about the plane’s mouth is that a small aperture is preferred because it will press down the grain of the wood as the cutter slices it.If the mouth is tight, then the cutter will be unable to get under the grain and lever it up ahead of your cut, tearing out the grain. This sounds reasonable, but there’s more to it. 90003 90002 The sometimes-forgotten problem with a fine aperture is that it makes your tool more likely to clog, especially if you have the chipbreaker set close. So a tight mouth is usually a time-consuming set-up, unless you have a smoothing plane dedicated to fine cuts. 90003 90002 I start closing up the mouth of a tool only when my other efforts fail: I’ve sharpened the iron, I’ve set it to take a fine cut, and I’m using the tool that has a high (62 °) angle of attack.If all those efforts fail, then I’ll weigh my choices: Tighten up the mouth and face some clogging issues, or get out the card scraper or sandpaper and call it a day. 90003 90002 A mini-mouth. Tightening up the mouth aperture of your plane can help in some cases, but you are likely to increase the chance of clogging up the works. 90003 90002 90007 No 6: Chipbreakers 90008 90009 If you follow the conventional wisdom for setting your chipbreaker, you might hate your handplane. 90003 90002 What’s the conventional wisdom? According to Charles Holtzapffel’s seminal 19th-century work on the cutting action of tools, you should set your smoothing plane’s chipbreaker.02 «from the cutting edge of your iron (other respected sources say to set it even closer) and to have an extremely tight mouth. 90003 90002 This, Holtzapffel says, prevents tear-out. 90003 90002 This, says your neighborhood editor, makes your plane choke. 90003 90002 Chipbreakers can do more harm than good in a handplane. Whenever I’m having trouble with a plane (especially if the plane is choking or refuses to cut), the first place I look is the chipbreaker. Whenever I fettle a new or vintage handplane and the thing will not behave, the first thing I’ll do is swap out its chipbreaker with another plane that has a working chipbreaker.In almost all cases, this solves my problem. 90003 90002 So what is the purpose of the chipbreaker? My cynical view is that it became widely used so toolmakers could use a cheap, thin steel cutter and reinforce it with an inexpensive iron or soft-steel plate. This is supported by the odd names given to chipbreakers. Some early sources call them cap irons, double irons, break irons or top irons. In other words, not everyone agrees that they were designed to break chips. 90003 90002 Early planes had thick irons and did not have chipbreakers, even during the age of mahogany, which is hard to plane well.90003 90002 In my view, the chipbreaker’s primary purpose in a modern plane is to mate with the tool’s blade-adjustment mechanism and to aid in chip ejection. Oh, and it exists to frustrate you. 90003 90002 So in what position should you place your chipbreaker? I set mine back about 3/32 «in a smoothing plane — sometimes even a little further back if the mouth is tight. All I’m really trying to do is to prevent clogging. 90003 90002 Which begs the question: Why did I list a chipbreaker as one of the ways to reduce tear-out? Well, I did mention one use for the chipbreaker in a modern Bailey-style plane — it mates with the tool’s depth-adjustment mechanism.This mechanism allows you to easily set your tool to take the finest cut possible, which really will reduce tear-out. 90003 90002 Break-down at the chipbreaker. The chipbreaker is supposed to reduce tear-out, but if it is set too closely, it will clog your plane. When you have a problem with your tool, investigate the chipbreaker first. 90003 90002 90007 No. 7: Skewing 90008 90009 I keep a list in my head of what I call «The Woodworking Mysteries» — things I pretend to understand but are outside my grasp.90003 90002 One mystery is how a tree can pump water to the furthest reaches of its branches. There are many clues as to how it works, but a complete picture eludes me. Another mystery is about how yellow glue actually works. Again, I’ve never read a satisfying explanation. 90003 90002 A third mystery relates to handplanes and basic geometry. One common strategy for reducing tear-out in a board is to skew the plane as you make the cut. This strategy was beaten into my head by all my teachers both dead and living.It’s repeated on the Internet by people I deeply respect and trust. And I do it myself in my work. 90003 90002 But if you do the math, you see how this strategy does not make much sense. 90003 90002 Let’s start with a fact: The higher the angle of attack when you plane a board, the less likely you are to experience tear-out. Another fact: Skewing a plane in use reduces your angle of attack. Mike Dunbar, the founder of The Windsor Institute, explains this in the clearest way possible. When a shaving encounters a plane iron, the angle of attack is like a hill that the shaving has to walk up.If you walk straight up that 45 ° hill, that’s a lot of work. When you skew the tool, it’s like the shaving is walking up the hill at a lower angle. Or put another way, it’s a bit like building a road up a steep mountain. You do not make the road go straight up the mountain, you build switchbacks so the vehicles can actually make it up the incline. Skewing reduces the amount of work required — both to plane a board and to climb a hill. 90003 90002 How much does skewing reduce your angle of attack? Skewing a 45 ° -pitch handplane by 30 ° will reduce your effective angle of attack to 40.9 ° — that’s significant. 90003 90002 So here’s the problem: If high planing angles reduce tear-out, and skewing a plane reduces your angle of attack, then how can skewing the plane reduce tear-out? 90003 90002 Hint: The answer is in the branches. 90003 90002 To explore this seeming contradiction, I did a little experiment. I took a short piece of ash with pronounced grain direction — that is, there was no question about which way the grain was traveling in the board. 90003 90002 I cleaned up one face with a smoothing plane and then turned the board around so that I planed against the grain, which is when you are more likely to encounter tear-out.Then I planed the board with a bevel-up block plane. This plane is bedded at 12 ° and the iron is sharpened with a 35 ° micro-bevel, so its angle of attack is 47 °. The mouth on the plane is wide open, so it’s not much of a factor. The tool is set to take a shaving that is about .002 «thick. 90003 90002 First I planed the board against the grain without skewing the tool. This cleaned up the board just fine with no tear-out. Then I skewed the tool by 30 ° (which lowered my effective planing angle to about 43 °) and did the same operation.I tried skewing both to the left and to the right. Two areas of the board tore out grotesquely. 90003 90002 Then I cleaned up the board again and tried skewing the plane at 20 °. Tear-out occurred at the same two places but not as badly. So I tried skewing the plane at a variety of angles. And without fail, the more I skewed the plane, the more tear-out occurred. 90003 90002 So how can skewing reduce tear-out? 90003 90002 You have to remember that trees are not manufactured items. They are giant cones made of fibers that grow in different directions as the tree responds to its environment: a hill, a disease, a wind storm.Then we slice them up into shapes suitable for building things, regardless of how the fibers are traveling through the tree. 90003 90002 In some boards, grain can change directions on you a couple times. And the grain can be at odd angles — you can not assume that all your boards will have grain running from one end to the other — the grain may be traveling at a 20 ° direction along the face of the board and 10 ° along the edge. And the grain might be in the shape of a shallow wave. 90003 90002 So there are times when skewing the plane puts the edge in the right position at the right time to deal with that patch of grain.90003 90002 In my example board above, the two places where the tear-out occurred were at places where the grain rose quickly. So how did I deal with this board? As I encountered the areas that tore out, I straightened out the tool — no skew. 90003 90002 When I worked the areas that did not tear out, I skewed the tool to reduce the effort required for planing. 90003 90002 So the trick with skewing takes us back to the No. 1 way to reduce tear-out: The best strategy is to select the best wood possible and learn to read the grain so you can begin to predict how your tools will behave.Sometimes, the best strategy is to not skew the tool. 90003 90002 Or put another way: Because grain is irregular, sometimes skewing the plane allows the blade to encounter the grain at a non-skewed angle — and to therefore you can plane it without tear-out. 90007 PW 90008 90003 90002 90003 90002 No skew. No tear-out. Planing with no skew resulted in no tear-out on this ash board. Skewing and tearing. Planing with a 30 ° skew (both skewing left and skewing right) created this ugly patch of torn grain.And at 20 °. Planing at a 20 ° skew (both skewing left and skewing right) created a little tear. No skew. No tear-out. Planing with no skew resulted in no tear-out on this ash board. Skewing and tearing. Planing with a 30 ° skew (both skewing left and skewing right) created this ugly patch of torn grain. And at 20 °. Planing at a 20 ° skew (both skewing left and skewing right) created a little tear-out. 90003 90002 90003 90215 90002 Product Recomendations 90003 90002 Here are some supplies and tools we find essential in our everyday work around the shop.We may receive a commission from sales referred by our links; however, we have carefully selected these products for their usefulness and quality. 90003.90000 9 Tips for Beating Router Tear-Out 90001 90002 We may receive a commission when you use our affiliate links. However, this does not impact our recommendations. 90003 90004 Stop router disasters before they start. 90005 90002 90003 90002 by Eric Smith 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 Snap, crackle, crunch! 90003 90002 90003 90002 No, it’s not your breakfast cereal. That’s the sound of router tear-out.90003 90002 90003 90002 Aaargh! 90003 90002 90003 90002 And that’s the sound of a woodworker facing a do-over or repair. 90003 90002 90003 90002 Tear-out can happen cutting across or against the grain, cutting too deeply, using a dull bit or just running into a hidden flaw. One thing’s for sure: It’ll always happen at the worst possible time. Although it can not completely be avoided, you can definitely minimize the chances of tear-out by following some simple techniques and precautions-without adding a lot of time or expense to your projects.90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90054 90055 90056 90057 90002 90003 90004 Pay Attention to Grain Direction 90005 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 Visualize a feather cut by a router. It would be a mess, of course, but the point is that when you rout against the grain (see photo, left), the wood reacts just like a feather. The grain is running right into the bit rotation. The wood’s fibers are likely to catch and break apart ahead of the cut, producing tear-out.But when you run the router with the grain (see photo, right), you get a smooth cut. 90003 90002 90003 90070 90071 90057 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90079 Feeding your stock so the grain direction crashes head on into the bit rotation is like running your finger the wrong way on a feather. Nasty tear-out is almost a sure thing. 90080 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90079 Flip a board end for end to change the direction from which the grain meets the cutter.Now the grain flows in the same direction as the bit rotation. The result will be a smooth cut with little or no tear-out worries. 90080 90070 90102 90103 90104 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90054 90055 90056 90057 90002 90003 90004 Make a Very Light Final Pass 90005 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 Trying to hog out a clean edge in one pass is asking for tear-out trouble. Instead of gambling with an expensive piece of wood, take the time to make at least two passes: one heavy pass and a very light final pass.90003 90002 90003 90002 Because the final pass is just a shaving cut, the bit is a lot less likely to catch and tear the wood fibers. You’ll get a smooth surface, even if the grain is going the wrong way. 90003 90002 90003 90070 90071 90057 90002 90003 90002 90003 90070 90102 90103 90104 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90054 90055 90056 90057 90002 90003 90004 Use a Down-Cutting Spiral Bit for Flush Trimming 90005 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 Down-cutting spiral bits push down on the wood’s surface.The result is a clean, tear-out-free shearing cut. Down-cutting spiral bits work especially well for trimming or cutting through delicate veneers, melamine, laminates and highly figured woods. 90003 90070 90071 90057 90002 90003 90002 90003 90070 90102 90103 90104 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90054 90055 90056 90057 90002 90003 90004 Use a Zero-Clearance Fence 90005 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 A zero-clearance fence backs up the wood as it’s fed into the router bit, making it difficult for the wood to chip.90003 90002 90003 90002 To make a zero-clearance fence, set the router bit at the height and depth you want. If you have removable subfences, turn the router on and slowly slide the infeed side of the fence into the bit. If your fence has a fixed face, clamp temporary subfences on both sides. With the router running, loosen the clamps on the infeed fence enough to slowly slide the subfences into the spinning bit. 90003 90070 90071 90057 90002 90003 90002 90211 90003 90070 90102 90103 90104 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90054 90055 90056 90057 90002 90003 90004 Rip and Start Over 90005 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 Sometimes you have no choice but to cut your loss and make a new piece.Other times, you can afford to trim the piece and start over. Just rip a bit off the damaged edge and then rout it again. 90003 90002 90003 90002 When I’m working with wood that looks likely to tear out, I try to give myself some wiggle room by cutting a wider piece than I need, then ripping it to size after I’ve successfully routed the edge. 90003 90070 90071 90057 90002 90003 90002 90003 90070 90102 90103 90104 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90054 90055 90056 90057 90002 90003 90004 Stop End-Grain Blowouts 90005 90004 with a Backer Board 90005 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 Rout the end grain first and use a backer board.That’s the best way to reduce your chances of blowing out a corner. The backer board supports the cut so the corner has no chance to tear away. Make sure the backer piece is at least as thick as the piece you’re routing. Clamp the pieces together for rock-solid support. 90003 90070 90071 90057 90002 90003 90002 90003 90070 90102 90103 90104 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90054 90055 90056 90057 90002 90003 90004 Make Some Plunge Cuts 90005 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 Routing against the grain may be unavoidable.On some edges, the grain reverses direction, so you can not win. If you’re getting tear-out along an edge-or even if it looks like you might-make a series of plunge cuts every inch or two. This will cause the splinters to break off at the cutout before they can ruin your profile. 90003 90002 90003 90002 The best way to make plunge cuts is to hold one end of the board tightly against the outfeed fence and the other end away from the spinning bit. Push the board against the fence, then pull it out.Move the board forward an inch or two and repeat. 90003 90070 90071 90057 90002 90003 90002 90003 90070 90102 90103 90104 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90054 90055 90056 90057 90002 90003 90004 Make Shallow Climb Cuts 90005 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 Reversing the normal direction of the router feed is called climb-cutting. Climb-cutting can involve either moving clockwise with a handheld router or pushing wood from left to right on a router table.Climb-cutting almost always eliminates tear-out, but it also makes the router more difficult to control. That’s because the stock is fed in the same direction as the bit is spinning, so the bit wants to grab the wood and pull. This makes climb-cutting potentially dangerous. It’s not recommended for most routing. If you follow a few rules, though, climb-cutting is a great way to get yourself over those pesky areas where tear-out is almost a sure thing. 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 Play it safe: 90003 90002 90003 90002 — Always make very shallow, light passes, especially when using a big bit.90003 90002 90003 90002 — Secure the wood and / or router very firmly. 90003 90002 90003 90002 — Make sure the bit is sharp. A dull bit grabs and pulls, but a sharp bit cuts with less effort. 90003 90002 90003 90002 — On a router table, use featherboards whenever possible to hold the board and keep it from running away. 90003 90002 90003 90002 -When using a handheld router, firmly clamp down the stock. If the workpiece is narrow, add support so the router will not tip. 90003 90002 90003 90002 — Never climb-cut small or narrow pieces on the router table.It’s better to cut the profile on a large piece and trim it to the size you want later. 90003 90070 90071 90057 90002 90003 90002 90003 90070 90102 90103 90104 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90054 90055 90056 90057 90002 90003 90004 Make a Scoring Cut on Dovetail Jigs 90005 90004 90005 90002 90003 90002 Face grain can splinter when you run a bit in and out of a board in a dovetail jig. Instead of having wood filler at the ready, start by making a light scoring pass along the entire edge of the board.Gently move the router in and out of the template fingers. Make the cuts about a 1/8 in. deep. Then go back and finish. 90003 90070 90071 90057 90002 90003 90002 90003 90070 90102 90103 90104 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90432 90002 Product Recomendations 90003 90002 Here are some supplies and tools we find essential in our everyday work around the shop. We may receive a commission from sales referred by our links; however, we have carefully selected these products for their usefulness and quality.90003.90000 How to wash your hands 90001 90002 90003 Washing your hands is one of the easiest ways to protect yourself and others from illnesses such as food poisoning and flu. 90004 90005 90002 Watch this video to find out the best way to wash your hands. 90005 90002 Media last reviewed: 30 March 2020 90009 Media review due: 30 March 2023 90005 90002 You should wash your hands for the amount of time it takes to sing «Happy Birthday» twice (around 20 seconds): 90005 90013 1.Wet your hands with water. 90014 2. Apply enough soap to cover your hands. 90015 3. Rub your hands together. 90016 4. Use 1 hand to rub the back of the other hand and clean in between the fingers. Do the same with the other hand. 90017 5. Rub your hands together and clean in between your fingers. 90018 6.Rub the back of your fingers against your palms. 90019 7. Rub your thumb using your other hand. Do the same with the other thumb. 90020 8. Rub the tips of your fingers on the palm of your other hand. Do the same with other hand. 90021 9. Rinse your hands with water. 90022 10. Dry your hands completely with a disposable towel.90023 11. Use the disposable towel to turn off the tap. 90002 If you do not have immediate access to soap and water then use alcohol-based handrub if available. 90005 90026 When should you wash your hands? 90027 90002 You should wash your hands: 90005 90030 90031 after using the toilet or changing a nappy 90032 90031 before and after handling raw foods like meat and vegetables 90032 90031 before eating or handling food 90032 90031 after blowing your nose, sneezing or coughing 90032 90031 before and after treating a cut or wound 90032 90031 after touching animals, including pets, their food and after cleaning their cages 90032 90043 90002 Washing your hands properly removes dirt, viruses and bacteria to stop them spreading to other people and objects, which can spread illnesses such as food poisoning, flu or diarrhoea.90005 90002 It can help stop people picking up infections and spreading them to others. 90005 90002 It can also help stop spreading infections when you’re visiting someone in hospital or another healthcare setting. 90005 90002 Page last reviewed: 18 October 2019 90009 Next review due: 18 October 2022 90005 .